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Technical Knowledge Of Leather Shoes

2008/8/11 10:11:00 41745

Leather shoes are made from leather or all leather, and are equipped with shoes for main heels, inner Baotou and hooks.

There are many ways to classify leather shoes.

They are divided into daily leather shoes, sports leather shoes, labor protection leather shoes and military leather shoes, and medical orthopedic leather shoes specially designed for abnormal feet.

According to the pattern, there are mainly ears, tongue, shallow mouth, boots and leather shoes. The boots are divided into high waist, half tube and high tube.

There are various sizes (shoe numbers) and fatness (fat and lean) for various styles to meet the needs of various foot types and consumers.

簡(jiǎn)史　皮鞋是隨著革的出現(xiàn)發(fā)展起來(lái)的。遠(yuǎn)古時(shí)代，人類靠游獵生活，將獸皮裹在腳上，以防止外界惡劣環(huán)境的侵害。公元前1450年的古埃及墓室的壁畫，反映了古代手工制作皮涼鞋的情景。中國(guó)古代稱皮鞋為革履，現(xiàn)存實(shí)物有湖南長(zhǎng)沙楚墓出土的距今2300多年前的革履，是用粗制的革縫合而成。手工制作皮鞋的經(jīng)驗(yàn)世代相傳，逐步發(fā)展成為專門的技藝。18世紀(jì)開(kāi)始，皮鞋生產(chǎn)向大工場(chǎng)和連續(xù)生產(chǎn)方向發(fā)展。19世紀(jì)出現(xiàn)制皮鞋專用機(jī)械。1858年，美國(guó)L.R.布萊克發(fā)明透縫绱底法和內(nèi)線機(jī)，之后由美國(guó)G.麥凱加以改進(jìn)，這種方法和機(jī)器一直沿用至今。1864年，縫紉機(jī)批量生產(chǎn)，隨之在皮鞋生產(chǎn)中應(yīng)用。1875年縫沿條機(jī)的出現(xiàn)和1883年繃幫機(jī)的問(wèn)世，使繁重的手工縫條和繃幫操作由機(jī)器代替。20世紀(jì)初期，線縫皮鞋基本實(shí)現(xiàn)機(jī)械化生產(chǎn)，生產(chǎn)效率有很大提高，但生產(chǎn)工藝變化不大。1910年出現(xiàn)的膠粘绱底法，在第二次世界大戰(zhàn)后迅速發(fā)展，從而實(shí)現(xiàn)由預(yù)成型部件裝配化生產(chǎn)皮鞋，這種方法現(xiàn)已廣泛采用。1935年歐洲開(kāi)始用模壓硫化法生產(chǎn)皮鞋。60年代初期注塑皮鞋問(wèn)世，發(fā)展了不用線縫绱底的方法。1987年中國(guó)生產(chǎn)皮鞋3.09億雙，其中膠粘皮鞋占58.9％，線縫皮鞋占34.1％，模壓硫化皮鞋占4.6％，注塑皮鞋占2.4％。

The main components of leather shoes usually include upper, sole, heel, inner Baotou and main heels.

Shoe upper: stitched from front, back and tongue.

The front part corresponds to the front part of the foot and the active part of the metatarsophalangeal joint. It is flexed, stretched, extruded and rubbed under the action of the foot. The heel part of the back is processed into a fixed shape similar to the heel. When walking and wearing leather shoes, the back band is also flexed and stretched. The front and rear sides are usually sutured on the sides of the arch of the arch.

The upper part of the shoe plays the role of wrapping up the foot and supporting the arch of the arch.

The general leather shoes are lined with lining to reinforce the upper and avoid wear, and absorb part of the sweat.

2. Soles: outsole, insole, semi insole, hook, cushion and filling core, which can isolate feet and floors, and cushion the ground to the feet.

The outsole has direct contact with the ground, subjected to various functions such as bending, extrusion, friction and external environment. The inner bottom directly bears the weight of the human body and pfers the gravity to the sole and heel. The inner sole is affected by bending, extrusion and friction. It is also affected by the sweat and the humidity and temperature inside the shoe. The center is fixed between the bottom and the bottom of the leather waist to strengthen the rear part and the supporting arch of the leather shoes, so that the leather shoe waist has certain elasticity to keep the position and shape of the sole and heel.

3. Heel: protect the outer part of the heel and the upper part of the joint from abrasion and damage, reduce the contact area between the sole and the ground, so as to reduce the thermal conductivity of the leather shoes, prevent the water on the ground from entering the shoes from the heel and the waist, and in addition, it has the function of absorbing the shock energy generated when the heel hits the ground.

The height of the heel is suitable, so that the weight of the human body can be reasonably distributed in all parts of the foot, so as to improve the elasticity of the arch.

4. Inside Baotou: leather shoes are installed in Baotou to keep the shape of the toe and prevent wearing deformation.

Some labour protects leather shoes to install steel plate to form Baotou, in order to ensure toe is not damaged.

Main heel: between the upper and the lining of the rear part of the shoe, the lower part is firmly integrated with the upper, the inner sole, the outsole and the heel to keep the heel part of the shoe in a fixed shape.

The main heel keeps the feet in the right position in the shoes.

The edge of the main heel is thin and elastic, and it can gently clip the upper part of the heel, and when shoes are worn, the shoes do not fall off with the feet.

The structure of leather shoes is different from that of the upper and sole.

The main products are: suede sewing shoes, sticky leather shoes, sewing shoes, layering and suing leather shoes, Indian soft leather shoes, California leather shoes, molded shoes and molded shoes.

Among them, molded shoes and molded shoes are combined with upper and inner sole while shoe sole and shoe heel are molded, molded by vulcanization and vulcanization, and thermoplastic materials (PVC, thermoplastic rubber, etc.) are molded by injection molding.

In addition, there are also anti slit shoes, cut suture leather shoes, sticky joints and leather shoes.

In recent years, leather shoes made of leather and shoes are very popular.

Early sports shoes and traditional leather shoes are basically the same in structure and material usage. With the development of sports, all kinds of sports events have special sports shoes, such as running shoes, high jump shoes, all kinds of ball games shoes, etc.

At the same time, there are many new sports shoes, such as training shoes, tourist shoes and so on. This type of sports shoes has gone beyond the scope of pure competition sports shoes, more and more people use it as a general leather shoes.

Sneakers are usually made of adhesive technology.

Because sports shoes must conform to the characteristics of all kinds of competitions and sports, to ensure that feet are free from injury and achieve good results, they are structurally different from traditional leather shoes.

The performance requires leather shoes not only to be fine in processing but also beautiful in appearance, and they should be comfortable and comfortable to wear, which will not affect the health of the feet, and help the feet to function normally.

Shape and size fit: the shape and size of leather shoes are important factors to fit the wearing.

The shape and size of the two pairs of shoes and feet should be corresponding, but there are differences.

The foot is a supporting organ and a motor organ. When walking, all parts of the foot are expanded, bent, stretched, contracted and so on. The leather shoes must adapt to these dynamic changes of the feet to fit the feet.

2. Moisture absorption and drainage performance is good: when the leather shoes are worn, the relative humidity inside the shoes is closely related to the comfort.

If the upper, the lining and the bottom of the body are not good enough to absorb moisture and moisture, the sweat absorbed by them is very small. The relative humidity in the shoes will become larger and larger, and the comfort will decrease.

Other properties meet the requirements: leather shoes weight, flexure, cushioning, stability, foot and so on are also related to wearing comfort.

The combination of leather and shoes, the quality of the materials used and the performance of leather shoes are also closely related.

There are 100 ways to make hand-made shoes.

The process of manufacturing leather shoes is much simpler than manual labor.

Developing trend

There are many kinds of leather shoes, different sizes, and often changing styles. Although mechanization and assembly production have been realized, it is still inseparable from manual operations. Therefore, the manufacture of leather shoes is not simply a mechanical process. It is the product of the close integration of the 3 aspects of artistry, designer's artistic creation and scientific research achievement.

Leather shoes produced by different countries have their own style and characteristics, mutual influence and absorption, thus constantly emerging many new fashions.

In the future, computer aided design and auxiliary manufacturing will be widely adopted in leather shoes production, and the performance of leather shoes machines will be improved.