“紡鄉(xiāng)染娘”花費(fèi)上百萬(wàn),讓草木染被世界看見(jiàn)
將荷葉自池塘里摘下,用手反復(fù)揉搓,讓紗布與汁液充分融合,稍等片刻,一塊黃色的紗巾就出現(xiàn)在段惠的手中。

圖為用荷葉染出的紗布。 李太源 攝
“別看過(guò)程很簡(jiǎn)單,實(shí)際上有很多講究,需要用開(kāi)花時(shí)的荷葉,還要注重揉搓的手法。”段惠緩緩講道。
55歲的她是保定市級(jí)非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)項(xiàng)目高陽(yáng)土布草木染技藝傳承人,在她的草木染文化園里,如今種著蓼藍(lán)、荷花、紅花、板藍(lán)根、海州常山等百余種植物。

圖為段惠在采摘植物。 李太源 攝
這些植物經(jīng)過(guò)采集、萃取、浸泡、染色、反復(fù)染等工序后,再輔以?shī)A纈、灰纈、蠟纈等染色技藝,就變成了一塊塊色澤亮麗、花紋獨(dú)特的布段。
“不同的植物適用不同的染色方式,有生染、發(fā)酵打藍(lán)染法、熱染或熱萃取冷染,以及柿染等?!倍位菽闷鹨粔K藍(lán)色棉布向記者介紹道,像板藍(lán)根經(jīng)過(guò)發(fā)酵后,就能擁有這種深藍(lán)色的染液。
穿著水墨色衣服的她,穿梭于棉花圖博物館內(nèi),就各個(gè)展品侃侃而談。少有人知道,段惠出生于紡織世家,其曾祖父曾赴法勤工儉學(xué),學(xué)習(xí)現(xiàn)代紡織工業(yè)技術(shù),歸國(guó)后在天津創(chuàng)辦制襪廠。改革開(kāi)放后,其父親又重操舊業(yè),開(kāi)啟了紡織生意。
受家庭氛圍影響,段惠一直對(duì)紡織抱有濃厚的興趣。2012年的一次出國(guó)經(jīng)歷,讓她接觸到了植物染,自此一發(fā)不可收拾,回來(lái)就開(kāi)始翻閱古籍學(xué)習(xí)?!鞍菘梢匀军S綠色,茜草可以染粉色,紅花可以染紅色,原來(lái)植物染出的顏色可以這么漂亮?!?/p>
后來(lái),她又趕赴國(guó)外學(xué)習(xí),按照學(xué)到的知識(shí)一遍遍實(shí)驗(yàn),最終把博物館裝扮成了五彩斑斕的世界。

圖為段惠介紹展館設(shè)計(jì)。 李太源 攝
據(jù)段惠透露,這么多年下來(lái),其在非遺上已投入上百萬(wàn)。“為尋找海州常山驅(qū)車(chē)600多公里,跑到北京門(mén)頭溝翻山越嶺找凍綠,很多人可能覺(jué)得我傻,畢竟前期很多投入是沒(méi)有回報(bào)的,但因?yàn)橄矚g就會(huì)愿意做這些東西?!?/p>
隨著接觸時(shí)間的增長(zhǎng),段惠也發(fā)現(xiàn),對(duì)草木染感興趣的人很多?!懊褡宓募词鞘澜绲?,不少外國(guó)人喜歡這種傳統(tǒng)工藝。河北大學(xué)的一個(gè)外國(guó)留學(xué)生玩過(guò)后,專門(mén)加了我的微信,希望把同學(xué)帶到這里。”
為了讓這項(xiàng)傳統(tǒng)技藝更好地傳承下去,段惠還開(kāi)通了短視頻,把扎染過(guò)程錄成視頻發(fā)布到網(wǎng)絡(luò)上,借“互聯(lián)網(wǎng)+非遺”模式對(duì)非遺技術(shù)實(shí)現(xiàn)“活態(tài)傳承”。
“一個(gè)柿染短視頻收獲48萬(wàn)的觀看量,‘00’后助手用板藍(lán)根染出的漢服,色如煙雨江南,獲得滿滿好評(píng)?!边@給了她極大信心,“希望把非遺技藝傳播給更多的人。”

圖為“00”后助手用板藍(lán)根染出的漢服。 李太源 攝
除了線上傳播,據(jù)段惠介紹,棉花圖紡織博物館也將為孩子以及紡織非遺愛(ài)好者提供特色的研學(xué)服務(wù),還會(huì)為周邊留守老人、婦女及靈活就業(yè)人員提供免費(fèi)的草木染技藝培訓(xùn),并讓她們參與到文創(chuàng)產(chǎn)品制作中?!拔覀円矔?huì)收購(gòu)周邊縣鎮(zhèn)農(nóng)作物的廢棄物,如板栗殼、核桃皮、洋蔥皮等用做染材,打造特色草木染鄉(xiāng)村經(jīng)濟(jì)?!?/p>
和草木結(jié)緣,為非遺癡迷,段惠用自己的十余年,書(shū)寫(xiě)了一段“紡鄉(xiāng)染娘”的傳奇經(jīng)歷。(記者 謝藝觀)
?。▉?lái)源:中新網(wǎng))
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