位于上海松江東南部的葉榭鎮(zhèn)之前名聲響亮，去年被中國紡織工業(yè)協(xié)會確立為紡織產(chǎn)業(yè)基地特色城鎮(zhèn)產(chǎn)業(yè)集群試點單位之一，更早的時候，它是中國毛衫針織的加工基地。這個雄心勃勃的小鎮(zhèn)試圖引入更多中國以及國際的品牌服裝。迪士尼旗下的米老鼠和維尼小熊、法國夢特嬌、臺灣品牌巧帛、中國春竹集團均成為葉榭鎮(zhèn)招商引資時的招牌。但現(xiàn)在的情況并不如想象的那樣風(fēng)光。上海巧帛服飾有限公司稱，公司已與葉榭當(dāng)?shù)氐慕訂位锇榻K止業(yè)務(wù)很久。而上海春竹兒童用品有限公司的特許加盟負責(zé)人劉先生也承認，春竹在葉榭當(dāng)?shù)亻_設(shè)的童裝公司已經(jīng)停產(chǎn)。

The situation of Ye Xie town can be regarded as a sample of China's local textile and garment industry's current difficulties.

"Compared with 2000, the profit margins are not as good as those at that time."

The foreign trade experienced salesman also introduced that the main pressure of the textile and garment industry in 2007 came from the appreciation of the renminbi.

Cost center shift

　　更大的擔(dān)憂也隨之出現(xiàn)?！拔疑蟼€月去美國，逛了很多GAPSTORE(美國服裝業(yè)巨頭，以生產(chǎn)休閑服裝聞名)，我發(fā)現(xiàn)他們店中80%的產(chǎn)品都不是貼牌中國制造，而都是來自越南、馬來西亞、韓國等東南亞國家?！盤PG中國首席財務(wù)官王彥豐說。數(shù)家不愿意透露品牌名稱的國際高端服裝公司中國區(qū)高層也向本報記者承認，逐步減少在中國的成衣采購，進而轉(zhuǎn)向越南等地已經(jīng)列入公司的計劃之中。“中國大部分服裝企業(yè)都是生產(chǎn)型企業(yè)，沒有一個強大的品牌設(shè)計規(guī)劃。這也就意味著在外貿(mào)產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈中，訂單客戶始終是把中國作為一個成本中心?！币晃徊辉敢馔嘎缎彰臉I(yè)內(nèi)人士說，“當(dāng)那些沒有品牌的生產(chǎn)型企業(yè)缺乏資金規(guī)模，同時又沒有應(yīng)對匯率變化、出口退稅下降的措施，必然也是毫無議價能力的，只有面臨淘汰或重新定位。”

In an analysis report, Wang Rong, an analyst with United Securities, pointed out: "the accelerated appreciation of the renminbi has made structural adjustment in China's textile and clothing export market.

Those insiders who do not want to disclose their names are not too optimistic about the European market. "At present, the euro is still in the appreciation stage, but it does not rule out that the EU may exert pressure this year to make the renminbi stronger, which will still produce pressure on exports."

Direction of pformation

The current plight of the apparel industry has also led some Chinese companies with their own brands to see new business opportunities.

"According to the rough estimates of the financial statements, the retail sales of retail outlets including Lining and other brands are still not comparable to those of Espirt," Wang Rong said. "But it shows that some leading clothing companies with private brands in China are beginning to gradually reduce production and turn to retail terminals to make profits."

　　包括老牌成衣公司雅戈爾等也正在計劃進入中國全新的服裝直銷領(lǐng)域與新興者一決高下。新興者如中國第一家以網(wǎng)絡(luò)直銷形式進入服裝細分市場的網(wǎng)絡(luò)零售商PPG，其首席執(zhí)行官李亮透露，公司目前的毛利率已經(jīng)可以達到250%?！拔覀儾幌駛鹘y(tǒng)的美國直銷公司，利潤并不來自于物流?！崩盍琳f。同樣很興奮的還有王敬。這不僅是因為他所領(lǐng)導(dǎo)的宏夢(上海)卡通實業(yè)有限公司(簡稱宏夢卡通)有望在明年初登陸美國納斯達克成為中國卡通概念第一股，更為重要的是，由他和其團隊所推動的虹貓藍兔中國原創(chuàng)卡通形象，在短短兩年時間里以授權(quán)模式，吸引了眾多服裝企業(yè)成為其合作伙伴。

With the increasing demand for pformation of foreign trade clothing enterprises, clothing enterprises without private brands are also looking for their own way out.

In the authorized customers of Hong Meng now, the Fujian Sheng Hesheng clothing and Yangzhou Allen Toys Co., Ltd. are all export oriented garment processing enterprises with huge export volume, but their own brand effect is not strong.

"The appreciation of the RMB exchange rate and the rise of labor costs have made many garment companies in their own strategy, script src=>