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A Shoemaking Teacher Who Travels Across The Ocean Sticks To The Craftsman Who Makes Shoes.

2014/7/31 13:18:00 21

ShoemakingHandcraftShoemaking Technology

< p > in Europe, which has a long history of shoemaking, although mechanized finished shoes have occupied most of the market, there is still a tradition of making leather shoes.

Locally, there are Japanese people who own their own handmade shoes shops and stick to the shoe culture.

Let's go into the shops they own.

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< p > < strong > < a > href= > http:// > m.pmae.cn/news/index_c.asp > France < /a > old shop "communication with customers is very important". < /strong > /p >


< p > the shop opened in Paris is an old shop called O Bos Dov and the main order is men's leather shoes.

This year, Shioda Yasuhiro (36 years old), who has been away from his formal work for many years, began to take over and take care of this store.

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< p > shoemaking begins with size measurement. Shioda Yasuhiro attaches great importance to the step of shoe type measurement. In order to determine the suitable occasions for these shoes and the way of life of the wearer, he will discuss with customers in advance.

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< p > after the size and style are finalized, he will start with the production of wood molds and draw lines on the pattern drawings to determine the location of leather cutting.

The decision of the boot shape is a laborious task.

Because a few millimeter differences will change the appearance and appearance of leather shoes, so this step is hand-made by oneself.

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< p > it takes one or two days to make wood molds.

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< p > when making shoe last (wooden mold), in order to ensure that the final leather shoes are not only fit, but also for fashion modeling, the producer needs to recall and speculate on the requirements of customers, while cutting the wood mold according to that feeling.

Yantian said: "from the hands of the birth of things, we must pour emotion and imagination."

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< p > leather used for a shoe costs a lot of raw leather from a cow.

Customized shoes are made of leather and high quality parts, and those leather that are inferior are used for manual testing.

In order to finish the part of the shoe tip, he asked the customer to try on half finished shoes and confirm the fitting condition step by step.

"For the feeling of fluency, inappropriate parts must be modified to perfection."

Yantian said so.

The work of adjusting the shoe last needs to be repeated many times, including the communication with customers. Until this step is completed, it will take four months to half a year.

Of course, handcraft is expensive, starting at 4200 euros.

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< p > Yantian was interested in shoes when he was in University. At that time, he could split the structure of clothes and make his own garments, but he knew nothing about shoes.

After graduation, he went to the shoemaking school in England to accumulate experience in the production of France's first class footwear brand (Masaro and Kurote).

"Because I want to try my own strategy", I changed my shoes.

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Xavier O Bos Dov, the third generation of the P, said, "my long cherished wish is the revival of hand-made shoes."

"I recognize the spirit of pursuing the ultimate brand and the aspirant of the Japanese."

He looked forward to the hand-made shoes made by Japan France cooperation.

And Yantian said: "through the communication and understanding with the order customers, we also get the highest satisfaction."

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< p > < strong > < a href= "http:// m.pmae.cn/news/index_c.asp" > Italy < /a > flaunting independence and tradition < /strong > /p >


< p > Matsuoka Yoshiko (33 years old) near the old bridge in Florence, Italy, has a shop called "Soria de Shoko pine Gang".

She has worked as a craftsman card, Roger Roman Manya, a famous shop for handmade shoes for 70 years. She has been studying for more than 10 years, and was officially released last year.

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< p > Matsuoka made the custom of the gentleman and the woman "a href=" http:// "m.pmae.cn/news/index_c.asp" > leather shoes < /a >, inside the shop is the production workshop, which can be seen in the workshops by a group of cats wrapped around the side of the work of Matsuoka.

What she is carrying out silently is to tighten the sewing leather on the wooden last, and then sew the inner layer of the shoe sole to make the overall shaping of the leather shoes "press" work -- this is the familiar operation when studying.

Then she embedded the studs one by one according to the rules.

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< p > when she was graduating from high school in Italy, she was deeply moved by the locally produced shoes that were carefully stitched up and tightly stitched.

After studying at the local language school, she learned the "Manya" shoe shop.

Back in Japan, she went to a special school and learned how to make plastic shoes. Compared with manna's technical level, she said, "I am surprised that the wooden last thing like a large machine made is something handmade."

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< p > plus the works of the school teacher, she made about 50 shoes.

As for the price, men's shoes 600 euros, ladies' shoes 350 euros starting price, wooden hand's manual fee also needs another 100 euros.

In addition, although the majority of female customer orders are high-heeled shoes, the shape of shoes will also vary according to height.

Four wooden pads were used to determine the final shoe shape customers.

Her first customer said to her, "I still wear your shoes now, because there are no second pairs of comfortable leather shoes.

This sentence has always inspired her.

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< p > "she is a very good craftsman."

Manya's craftsmen said.

In the modern age of traditional handicraft workers in Florence, the orders left by the rest of the craftsmen are also increasing.

What she owns is a pair of hands that support the traditional leather industry.

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